Lamorna Cove: Quarry, Port, Smuggling Traditions, Artistic Haven, and the Botanical Richness of a Cornish Microclimate
Abstract
This article explores Lamorna Cove, situated within the Penwith section (Area 7) of the Cornwall National Landscape, as a dynamic case study of environmental distinctiveness, industrial development, cultural heritage, and historical criminal enterprise. Beginning with 19th-century granite quarrying operations and the construction of a harbour to support maritime transport (Pett, 1998; Barton, 1968), the paper examines the cove’s evolution following the quarry’s decline and the subsequent emergence of a thriving artistic community (Cross, 2001). Particular attention is given to Lamorna’s sheltered microclimate, which fosters unusual botanical diversity (Cornwall Wildlife Trust, 2022). The article further investigates the Cove’s association with Cornwall’s historical smuggling economy, exemplified by the traditions linked to The Lamorna Wink pub (Deacon, 1983; Cornish Story, 2018). By situating Lamorna within the broader contexts of environmental history, industrial archaeology, and cultural heritage, this study highlights the multiple ways landscapes can serve simultaneously as sites of economic activity, ecological richness, creative inspiration, and community resilience.
Introduction
Lamorna Cove, located approximately four miles southwest of Penzance, offers a rich tapestry of industrial, environmental, and cultural narratives. Set within the Cornwall CNL, the cove’s history reflects broader themes in Cornwall’s development, from resource extraction and maritime activity to artistic expression and folk traditions, including the darker legacy of smuggling.
Industrial Development: Quarrying and Maritime Activity
Granite quarrying commenced at Lamorna Cove during the 1840s (Pett, 1998). The cove’s fine-grained granite was highly valued and contributed to major construction projects such as the Admiralty Pier at Dover and naval facilities at Portsmouth (Barton, 1968).
To support the export of granite, a small harbour and quay were constructed. Nevertheless, the logistical difficulties associated with shipping stone from a relatively exposed location limited Lamorna’s commercial success compared to larger inland quarries. By the early 20th century, quarrying operations had ceased (Herring, 2000).
Today, the remnants of Lamorna’s quarrying past are visible in the form of abandoned stone cuttings, sections of the quay, and tool marks etched into the cliffs, preserving the memory of this industrial period.
Environmental Richness: Microclimate and Biodiversity
A significant factor contributing to Lamorna Cove’s and valley distinctive character is its microclimate. The cove’s southeast-facing, steep-sided valley offers shelter from prevailing Atlantic storms, resulting in a milder and more humid environment than elsewhere in Cornwall (Cornwall Wildlife Trust, 2022).
This unique climate allows both native and exotic plant species to thrive, including:
Tree fern (Dicksonia antarctica),
Giant rhubarb (Gunnera manicata),
Giant viper’s bugloss (Echium pininana),
African lily (Agapanthus praecox),
Ginger lily (Hedychium spp.),
Various bamboo species,
Passionflower (Passiflora caerulea).
Native flora such as Cornish heath (Erica vagans), sessile oak (Quercus petraea), primroses, bluebells, and foxgloves also flourish in this environment.
Cultural Heritage: Smuggling in Cornwall and The Story of The Lamorna Wink
Cornwall’s deeply indented coastline, characterised by hidden coves like Lamorna, historically provided ideal conditions for smuggling activities between the 17th and 19th centuries (Deacon, 1983). Economic hardships resulting from the decline of mining and fishing industries made smuggling particularly of goods such as tea, brandy, and tobacco a lucrative alternative for local communities (Cordingly, 1995; Palmer, 1978).
One of the most tangible links to this past is The Lamorna Wink pub. The term “wink” in smuggling parlance referred to a covert signal indicating a desire to purchase contraband (Cornish Story, 2018). By discreetly “tipping the wink,” patrons could obtain smuggled goods without attracting the attention of authorities. The pub itself, believed to have served as a key meeting point for smugglers, remains a symbol of the area’s rich and secretive past. Furthermore, the broader term “kiddlywink” was used to describe small alehouses often associated with informal and illicit trade in Cornwall (Cornwall Forever, 2024).
Today, The Lamorna Wink stands not only as a social hub but as a living testament to Cornwall’s resilient, often rebellious maritime culture.
The South West Coast Path and Tourism
Lamorna Cove is also strategically located along the South West Coast Path, Britain’s longest national trail, which promotes sustainable recreation by encouraging walking and appreciation of natural landscapes (South West Coast Path Association, 2024). The trail enhances Lamorna’s accessibility and highlights its natural beauty within a wider regional network of protected coastal paths.
With the recent release of the film adaptation of Raynor Winn’s memoir The Salt Path (Winn, 2018), public interest in the South West Coast Path is anticipated to rise, potentially bringing greater visitor numbers to Lamorna and other historically rich coastal sites.
Conclusion
Lamorna Cove offers a compelling example of the ways in which a small landscape can encapsulate major historical, environmental, and cultural processes. From granite quarrying and maritime trade to the flourishing of exotic plant species and the preservation of smuggling traditions, Lamorna stands as a vibrant microcosm of Cornwall’s broader story. Its continued role within recreational tourism, particularly through the South West Coast Path, ensures that Lamorna’s complex heritage will remain alive and accessible for future generations.
References
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